Turkey at Christmas is controversial in my household. Traditional? Yes. Dry? Often. A first choice? Never.
So, I didn’t have high hopes when turkey appeared at the centre of the menu at Caractère, the Michelin-starred restaurant run by Michel Roux and his daughter Emily. Yet I found myself eating not just turkey but also my words.
Michel Roux cut his teeth at Le Gavroche, opened by his family in London in 1967, which went on to become one of the UK’s most influential kitchens and the first in Britain to earn Michelin stars – one, then two, then three. In short, you’re in safe hands, and that exacting training is evident from the very first course.
The Orkney scallops – the biggest I’ve ever seen – rested on leeks braised into a gentle, sweet compote, finished with a bit of Iberico ham to add saltiness. Michel then poured the beurre blanc sauce – a French white-wine and butter classic – over the dish at the table, warming it and giving it a glossy sheen. To accompany it, the sommelier served a 2023 Rully Blanc 1er Cru Meix Cadot Domaine Jacques Dury, a fresh, light wine that cut through the richness perfectly.
Up next: roast wild sea bream, paired with trout and herring roe. The presentation drew audible delight from the table beside me, and it was easy to see why – the fish flaked cleanly, the roe offered little bursts of salt, and the sauce added richness without overwhelming. Served with a 2017 Crozes-Hermitage La Chêne Vierge from Alain Graillot – a red wine, unusual with fish – it worked, its peppery warmth complementing the dish.
Then came the often-dividing course: the turkey. Today, there would be no divisions.
Chef Emily came out and reinforced my own thoughts on the bird, explaining that they had avoided it in previous years because it can easily turn dry. Turkey’s hold on the Christmas table seems to be loosening – recent figures suggest only around half of UK households plan to serve it this year – so my dread of a festive turkey course felt oddly timely.
At Roux, Emily explained, they only decided to serve turkey this year when they were confident it could be moist and genuinely enhance the meal. And the stuffed bronze breast, with cèpes, black winter truffle, and Madeira jus, delivered on every count. The truffle added earthy depth, the jus a polished richness, and when the turkey gleamed with moisture as it arrived at the table, there was no question of dryness.
To go with the turkey, the sommelier brought over a 2009 Pomerol, Ancien Domaine des Hospitaliers – the oldest wine of the evening. It had a gentle, rounded warmth that matched the richness of the truffle and the turkey itself, making each bite feel a little more indulgent.
For dessert, a warm chocolate mousse arrived with morello cherries and pistachio praline – mine adapted to a gluten-free version – served in a fun, futuristic bowl that looked a bit like a spaceship, and it was incredibly satisfying to dip the spoon through the layers and reach a praline crunch. A glass of 2016 Château Suduiraut, Premier Cru Classé Sauternes, accompanied the dish, highlighting the chocolate’s richness with notes of honey and stone fruit. Petits fours and coffee brought the tasting menu to a satisfying close.
Overall, I really enjoyed how there weren’t 500 steps to this tasting menu. It felt Christmassy in that sense – indulgent, but without an endless mini-marathon of courses. It still had that rich, festive energy of a traditional meal.
My mind has been changed about turkey – perhaps my previous judgement was influenced by the lack of a Michelin-starred chef in my own kitchen. On that note, I should probably apologise in advance to my family for my impossibly high standards this December 25th.