Juun.J AW25: Monumentality and Contrasts in a New Vision of Menswear

Juun.J’s Fall/Winter 2025 collection asserts itself with a calibrated theatricality, where the interplay of proportions becomes the focal point of a reflection on the tension between structure and fluidity, grandeur and intimacy. Jung Wook-jun, true to his disruptive aesthetic, reinterprets the concept of the uniform with a sensitivity that transforms sartorial rigor into a complex expressive code, capable of alternating between striking visual impact and meticulous detail.

The obsession with volume, a hallmark of the Korean maison, pushes the boundaries of experimentation even further: parkas, utility jackets, and denim blousons swell to extreme proportions, almost rewriting the contours of the male body. Their interaction with the underlying layers creates a visual and material counterpoint that challenges traditional hierarchies of clothing: pencil skirts and fitted trousers sculpt the silhouette with geometric precision, while double-breasted suits sharpen the lines with surgical exactitude. 

The waist becomes both boundary and threshold, emphasized by belts cinching glossy leather coats, shaping a peplum effect that fuses austerity with sensuality.

Reinforcing the theme of duality, Jung engages in an intricate material exploration. Glossy leather clashes with raw-textured faux fur, the rigor of twill meets the softness of ribbed knits, while classic houndstooth dissolves into fine stripes, redefining the language of tailoring. Denim, a fundamental element in the designer’s vocabulary, takes on new connotations: oversized jeans collapse into voluminous folds, revealing slimmer layers beneath, creating a “melting” effect that evokes a liquid, ever-changing silhouette.

The collection’s strength does not lie solely in the monumentality of its forms but in a more nuanced reading of contemporary masculinity, where power and vulnerability coexist. Outerwear is not merely protective but becomes a narrative tool, while tailoring, though precise, sheds rigidity in favor of a softer, more adaptable language. With Coveruncover, Jung Wook-jun asserts a vision of menswear that refuses to settle for mere exaggeration but instead questions the relationship between body and garment, individual expression and collective structure. An unstable balance, but precisely for this reason, deeply contemporary.