Raw Energy, Sharp Craft: Karmine’s Vision for Denim, Where Craftsmanship Meets Innovation
As London Fashion Week approaches, marking the presence of both established and emerging designers, it also signifies the unveiling of their unique visions, aesthetics, and inspirations behind their creations.
This highly anticipated event offers a glimpse into the future of fashion, where creativity and innovation take center stage.
These are the exact words that came to mind when I first encountered Karmine’s creations: “Creativity” and “Innovation”. These qualities stood out as some of the key reasons I felt compelled to explore this brand further. I wanted to delve deeper into its world and share it with you, offering a glimpse into the artistry that drives it.
At first glance, Karmine stands out for its bold, almost mythical aesthetic, a fusion of medieval symbolism, raw textures, and contemporary experimentation. The brand’s denim pieces are more than garments; they are living artifacts, shaped by time, craftsmanship, and an embrace of imperfection. The intricate distressing, hand-sewn details and unique washes ensure that no two pieces are ever identical, reinforcing the idea that beauty and fashion lie in individuality.
Karmine may have only recently emerged, debuting in November 2024, but it is the result of years of research, dedication, and craftsmanship. Built on a vision of authenticity, it draws on mastery, tradition, and modern evolution. Each fabric selection is intentional—denim that wears and transforms with the wearer, enriched through artisanal treatments and innovative techniques.
Karmine’s approach is deeply rooted in sustainability, honoring tradition while pushing forward with modern advancements in textile manipulation.
The result? A collection that feels both ancient and futuristic, where echoes of the past meet the precision of technology.
Through my exclusive conversation with the Creative Director, we explore the craftsmanship, philosophy and creative vision behind the brand. I invite you to discover Karmine—an exciting force in fashion, who see clothing as an extension of self, pushing boundaries and offering something truly unique.
What sets Karmine apart is its refusal to follow trends. Instead, it forges its own path, creating unique visions for a world that shares its daring spirit. This is a brand that doesn’t just adapt to fashion—it shapes it.
The Cold Magazine (CM): What is the story behind Karmine? How did its name come about, and what does it symbolize for you?
Carmine (C): It is the natural continuation of a family tradition that began in 1954 with my grandfather and then continued with my father. Thanks to him, I was able to gain an in-depth knowledge of all the work behind the conception, design and creation of a brand.
Karmine is an experimental, visionary and independent reality, the result of years of dedication and research. The project was officially launched in November 2024, but the work began five years earlier.
The name comes from my real name, with a “K” instead of a “C.” It is a way to represent myself and the evolution of my aesthetic research.
CM: What is the core vision and philosophy behind the brand?
C: We want to change the denim game, producing unique garments that transform over time. We experiment with innovative techniques that challenge convention, combining craftsmanship and technology to create something unprecedented.
The soul of Karmine is the balance between authenticity, sustainability and innovation. We believe in a visionary and experimental approach to design, while never losing the connection to traditional craftsmanship. Each garment is designed to last and tell a story, with ecologically responsible production processes.
CM: What inspired you to create the brand? Was there a specific moment or experience that led you to this decision?
C: Karmine is the natural result of my early exposure to the world of fashion and my study choices.
After art high school in Naples, I studied photography at the University of Rome because I thought it was fundamental to understand the image as such: what is inside that rectangle and how I can communicate my vision.
Even today, in addition to fashion shows, I believe that editorials are one of the most powerful means to tell a story through fashion.
Later, I studied fashion 3D , focusing on technologies applied to fashion and the use of advanced design software. This path gave me a broader and more innovative view on how to create garments and develop a brand identity.
CM: Craftsmanship is at the core of your brand. What does it mean to you in denim manufacturing, and how is it reflected in your treatment techniques? What excites you most about this process?
C: I personally follow every single stage of production. If I can’t perfectly explain to those who sew my jeans how they should come, the result will be wrong. The same goes for washing: every detail depends on clear communication and constant supervision.
Craftsmanship is about collaboration. Every person involved must enter my world and interpret my vision. For this reason, I personally make the first prototype by hand, which then goes to the workshops for final production. Being a manual process, each garment is slightly different: the mood of the person working, personal sensibility, the inspiration of the moment… everything affects the result.
The thing that excites me the most? Knowing that each piece is unique, with its own story and character.
CM: Is there a specific technique or innovation you use that you consider a signature of your brand?
C: Yes. The flaws. Each jean is hand-sewn, so each piece will always be slightly different from the others. The same goes for washes and treatments: each garment is unrepeatable.
In the world of mass production, if a garment has a small defect, it is discarded.
I promote the opposite: I value imperfections because they are Karmine’s true signature.
Innovation is an ongoing process. Today the brand has only been out for a few months, but in the future we may invent a treatment that will become iconic.
CM: Why did you choose to manufacture your products in Italy, and what do you believe this adds in terms of quality and aesthetics?
C: Italy has a tradition of sartorial craftsmanship that goes back centuries, and we believe it is essential to carry on this tradition, as the masters in the field are disappearing, and they are not always able to spread their knowledge to eventual successors. Also, living in Italy, I can personally follow all stages of production.
Many designers today work remotely with foreign suppliers, sending a mockup via email and waiting months for the sample. This is not my way of working: I want to be there, touching materials, correcting details in real time.
CM: Observing your logo, one might say that its Gothic font, with sharp angles and bold curves, exudes a distinctive character and an artistic sensibility. How would you describe the aesthetic DNA of your brand?
C: Karmine’s aesthetic DNA was born from the encounter between traditional craftsmanship and technological innovation. Our visual identity is based on a mix of contrasts: on one hand, modern elements such as 3D, artificial intelligence, avatars and clones; on the other, references to the fantasy world, the Middle Ages, tarot and magic. This balance, between ancient and contemporary, is reflected in every stage of our creative process, from manual methods to the choice of natural materials enriched with sophisticated details.
CM: Your campaigns convey a raw and earthy vibe, with a strong connection to natural elements and powerful aura. What story do you aim to tell through them?
C: Karmine’s campaigns are a celebration of authenticity and strength rooted in everyday life. Each image tells a story of lived life, where imperfections are emphasized as a sign of uniqueness, just like our denim that bears the marks of handwork and time. In this way, we invite those who choose Karmine to recognize and celebrate their individuality, finding strength in their roots and authenticity.
We have a habit of doing certain things and avoiding others, shaped by the context from which we come. Our story is one of defying conventions.
CM: If you had to describe your brand in three words, what would they be? What are the qualities that set it apart from other denim brands in the market, and who do you envision wearing your designs?
C: Experimental, artisanal, conscious.Our brand is designed for those who seek originality and authenticity, for those who do not conform to passing fads but prefer to create their own style. Our creations are made for those who appreciate craftsmanship, attention to detail, and the unique story behind each garment. I envision the Karmine customer as someone deeply connected to their surroundings, who values meaningful interactions and chooses to invest in high-quality denim that stands the test of time in a fast-fashion-driven world.
CM: Where do you draw inspiration for your designs from? Are there any specific influences, eras, or artistic movements that shape your work?
C: The inspiration for my designs comes from a desire to capture natural and weather effects and make them part of denim, as if it had always been there.
I am deeply inspired by the raw energy of street culture, blended with the precision and care of Japanese craftsmanship.
Movements such as Surrealism and Dadaism are particularly significant to me, as they challenge traditional conventions and play with the boundaries between the real and the imagined. These art movements push me to constantly experiment and break with convention, something that is essential to my creative process.
CM: How do you envision the evolution of your brand in the upcoming years? Are there any new projects or collaborations you can reveal?
C: We will continue to push the boundaries in the treatment of denim and explore new techniques that combine traditional craftsmanship with modernity. There are certainly exciting collaborations on the horizon, whether with artists, designers or even figures from other creative fields
CM: What emotion or statement would you like someone to express when wearing a piece from your brand?
C: When someone wears a Karmine garment, I want them to feel empowered and confident. Our garments are not just fashion; they are an expression of individuality. I want the wearer to feel that they are wearing something that tells a personal story, is unique and represents their identity. Karmine’s raw, natural vibe should evoke a sense of strength but also celebrate the beauty of imperfections and authenticity.
CM: Are there any new techniques or materials you’d like to explore in the future? Would you consider expanding into other clothing categories or accessories beyond denim?
C: Absolutely. We are always looking for new materials and innovative techniques to keep up with the times while remaining true to our commitment to sustainability. In the future, I would like to explore the use of biodegradable fabrics and eco-friendly dyes that are even more sustainable than those we currently use. We are also exploring the possibility of integrating technology into our designs, for example with smart fabrics or interactive denim, which could have a functional as well as an aesthetic aspect.
As for expanding into other categories, yes, I would like to create a range of interior design furniture products. The goal is always to stay true to the essence of Karmine: to create handcrafted, innovative and sustainable products, but with new expressions and possibilities for the brand.
Written by Anna Lazai
Edited by Lily-Rose Morris-Zumin