
Rick Owens AW25: A Return to Simplicity
Paris Fashion Week AW25
Written by Ritamorena Zotti
Rick Owens’ Autumn/Winter 2025-26 collection signals a return to simplicity—at least, by his standards. Known for his grand, theatrical runway spectacles, this season he adopts a more grounded approach, balancing shock and wonder with a reminder of his seriousness as a designer. A theme previously explored he had already explored in his menswear collection, this shift in focus invites a desire to strip away excess, offering a new vision of how minimalism and deconstruction can coexist in a world oversaturated with spectacle.
One of the defining concepts of Owens’ work is the Latin saying Repetita iuvant—“repetition helps.” He has long believed that reiterating ideas not only clarifies them but also reinforces their impact.. The AW 2025-26 collection fits into this vision as continuation of Concordians, a thematic journey that began the previous season. The name pays homage to Owens’ 22 years of travel, leading him to Concordia, an industrial town in Italy, where he and his team have cultivated a creative sanctuary. For Owens, simplicity is a philosophical constant – his vision is always about distilling more from less, but with deep intention.

Just as great composers like Handel and Rossini would repurpose and transform musical motifs, Owens reinterprets and refines themes across collections. The collection expresses this modularity, where pieces can transition from menswear to womenswear, creating a cohesive yet distinct wardrobe. This season, his signature exaggerated forms were subtly reworked: structured bombers, belted coats, and peplum-hem jackets appeared in gray flannel, while deconstructed chaps woven from laser-cut leather fringe introduced an element of raw craftsmanship. A standout was the leather bomber jacket lined in leather, not silk or nylon—an idea previously explored in his collaboration with Rimowa, where material transformation elevated a mundane object into high fashion.
Music played its usual central role, with Owens returning to “Mass Production” by Iggy Pop, the same song he used 23 years ago at his first New York show. The track, with its discordant yet hypnotic quality, mirrors Owens’ aesthetic—dissonant yet captivating. The collection itself followed this theme, with hoodies crafted from thin strips of natural rubber that rippled like gills as the models moved, and the now-iconic dracucollars emerged alongside sculptural outerwear. Owens’ exploration of contrast—raw and refined, sacred and profane—was further underscored by the models wearing black contact lenses, his version of red lipstick, evoking vulnerability and intensity.

For Owens, the female body is not just a frame for clothing, but a canvas for transformation. Owens, once again, does not merely design clothing but seeks to redefine how we perceive the body and its relationship with garments. This collection is not about ornamentation, but rather about silhouette, structure, and the purity of form—an invitation to shed excess and embrace essentialism. Owens’ womenswear remains a study in deliberate reduction, reaffirming his philosophy with elegant clarity.
Ultimately, the Autumn/Winter 2025-26 collection stands out as both an evolution of his work and a reflection on the power of simplicity. By fusing past and present, the raw and the refined, Owens continues to push the boundaries of fashion while staying true to his singular vision—one where beauty is found in restraint, and where even the simplest garments hold a quiet, subversive opulence.
