Abra AW25: A Balance Between Minimalism and Matter
Paris Fashion Week AW25
Written by Ritamorena Zotti
Abraham Ortuño Perez—better known as Abra—is a designer who wears his nostalgia on his sleeve. His label, named after his personal nickname, is an autobiographical project where each collection draws from his past, particularly his own evolving relationship with fashion. This season, the Spanish designer takes us on a journey through childhood memories.
His Autumn/Winter 2025-26 collection transforms these memories into a playful yet sophisticated wardrobe, one that captures the fantasy of dressing like the elegant city women he and his mother admired. Instead of turning this concept into a self-indulgent nostalgia trip, Abra channels it into a fresh and witty interpretation of glamour, revisiting the “hits” of small-town boutiques from the late ’80s and early ’90s. The show opened with statement faux-fur coats that turned models into human-sized roses—one of the most inventive takes on the fur trend this season. A lineup of twofer coats followed, blending power-shoulder tailoring with soft draping, deconstructed trench coats with backwards cuts, and cropped leather jackets styled over catsuits—a modern evolution of the Jane Fonda workout-era aesthetic.
Abra’s signature accessories have dominated the fashion scene in recent years—his satin ballet flat sneakers have become a street-style staple—but this collection asserts his growing presence in ready-to-wear. His final looks, a trio of dazzling lamé dresses, encapsulated the spirit of the collection: one unraveled gracefully around the body, another featured an asymmetric cut with a crinoline skirt, and the third was adorned with cascading ruffles of varying lengths. They were exactly the kind of showstopping pieces that once filled boutique windows, enticing those who longed for a touch of imported magic.
Yet, while the collection successfully blends past and present, it ultimately stops short of a true breakthrough. Abra’s ability to tell stories through material and form is undeniable, but this season lacks the bold experimentation that could have propelled his vision to the next level. His aesthetic remains elegant and deeply personal, but not entirely innovative. The collection feels like a refinement rather than an evolution—a nostalgic dream beautifully executed, but one that plays it safe. If Abra dares to push his language further, embracing risk with the same sincerity he brings to his memories, he has the potential to create something truly extraordinary.
