Backstage At Sonia Carrasco AW26

Written by: Connie Fletcher
Edited by: Penelope Bianchi
Photography: Lily Maguire
A group of four people stand indoors under bright ceiling lights, with two individuals in the foreground looking serious and two others behind them, slightly out of focus. The image has a muted, monochrome tone.
A person with short dark hair wears a grey three-piece suit and a white scarf around their neck. They look directly at the camera in a well-lit indoor setting.
A woman with straight dark hair tied back stands indoors wearing a navy jacket and a large white ruffled scarf. She looks to the side, with racks of clothes and people blurred in the background.

Last week, Spanish designer Sonia Carrasco debuted her AW26 collection at Maison des Compagnons du Devoir during Paris Fashion Week. The ready-to-wear collection foregrounds craftsmanship, spotlighting Carrasco’s signature tailoring and knitwear. The Cold Magazine went backstage to see how this vision was pieced together.

A woman stands in profile backstage as a person adjusts her clothing. She wears a dark outfit and her hair is tied back. There are racks of clothes and a sign that reads Confirmado in the background.
A young man with short hair stands in front of a clothing rack, wearing a gray hoodie over a white shirt and red tie, looking down in a room with hanging clothes and soft natural light.
A person in a light-colored, silky shirt stands indoors, bathed in soft, natural light. They are looking slightly down and to the side while buttoning their shirt, with a jacket and blurred figure in the background.

Rooted in an ethos that centres process, the collection renders construction visible. Raw hems, topstitching, exposed seams and suit facings create a language of deconstruction, in progress and in motion; this deliberation becomes a quiet resistance that contrasts with the more traditional tailoring techniques Carrasco employs across blazers, shirting and outerwear. Even woven shirting is styled in an atypical yet contemporary way, resulting in something both formal and informal in tone.

A young man with short curly hair and sharp features gazes intently at the camera, partially obscured by an out-of-focus hanger and clothing in the foreground. The lighting is soft and highlights his face.
A young man with slicked-back hair looks into the camera while someone adjusts the collar of his dark jacket. He stands indoors near a window, with blurred clothing and hangers in the background.
A woman with short hair and a high-collared dark outfit stands indoors, looking to the side. The background is softly blurred with bright light shining behind her.

Across menswear and womenswear, androgynous, boxy silhouettes are realised through layered outerwear and oversized knitwear. The persistent contrasts embedded in Carrasco’s designs are further highlighted through stylisation: mixing knitwear, wovens and leather introduces a playful and tactile quality that runs throughout. A subdued palette, derived from traditional suiting, is punctuated by bolder accents of red and warm earthy tones.

A woman with straight black hair wearing a dark outfit, a white neck scarf, and a cape-like collar stands indoors, looking directly at the camera under soft lighting.
A group of people, mostly men, stand in a dimly lit space. Dramatic shadows and dark panels partially obscure their faces, creating a mysterious and moody atmosphere.
A person with slicked-back black hair and a serious expression wears a dark suit and stands indoors, facing the camera. Two other people, also dressed formally, are blurred in the background.

Carrasco’s commitment to sustainability sits at the core of her practice and is reflected in the techniques that recur throughout the collection. Placing slow fashion at the forefront, AW26 remains thoughtful, considered and distinctly reminiscent of the designer’s identity.

Two men in formal attire stand side by side, one in profile wearing a dark blazer and red shirt with an earring, and the other slightly blurred in the background wearing a light-colored jacket. They are indoors with natural light.
Four individuals stand indoors wearing dark, structured clothing. Three look away with neutral expressions, while one has their eyes closed and face partially covered with white tape. The scene has a somber, muted tone.
A person with closed eyes stands still as two others adjust their collar and ears, possibly preparing for a performance or photoshoot in a dimly lit room.
A man with styled dark hair wears a brown wool coat layered over a gray turtleneck, looking serious and gazing to the side in an indoor setting with soft lighting and a blurred background.

MORE ON THESE TOPICS:

0
    Your Cart
    Your cart is emptyReturn to Shop