Against the backdrop of Parliament Square, Manchester-born fashion collective Doll World took their runway to the streets of London. Originally set to showcase their work as an anti-fashion week London Fashion Week show, their anticipated capital debut went awry when the intended venue flooded the night before.
Despite the chaos – no venue, refunding tickets, a broken heel and a model fainting – Doll World were determined to persevere. Founding duo Maddy and Charlie explained that, whilst they spent 24 hours devastated and heartbroken, they had “poured everything into this project”, making it integral for them to go ahead with the event regardless of their circumstances. “London needs this,” they said.
This year, Doll World celebrates its one-year anniversary. Their manifesto prioritises sustainability, collaboration, accessibility, friendship and inclusion. Maddy and Charlie met while working together in a charity shop and they bonded over a shared love of fashion – they knew they were “meant to build something together”. So they launched the collective and now, among other things, run 10-week fashion programmes for aspiring designers. Each week, participants are asked to complete tasks such as constructing a garment. “It’s kinda like drag race,” they laugh.
Following a social media call-out, a crowd of friends, strangers and industry professionals turned up to the ad hoc Parliament Square show in solidarity. The affair caused quite a stir, disrupting onlooking tourists’ view of Big Ben and the Houses of Parliament. It also caught the attention of parliament security, who tried to shut the runway down.
Whereas traditional, on-calendar fashion week events favour exclusivity, with invitations being mandatory, Doll World’s public event allowed anyone and everyone to attend. At a time when it can feel impossible for industry professionals to gain a seat at the table, Doll World’s approach feels like a holistic reframing of who fashion week is for.
Speaking with The Cold Magazine, Maddy and Charlie discussed the London-centricity and nepotism of the fashion industry, and the trials and tribulations of being based outside the capital. The financial burden of showcasing at fashion week, alongside a decline of available sponsorship, can make it inaccessible. By contrast, Doll World brings a ‘doing it my way’ attitude. You have to be adaptable and “not let things beat you down”, they explain.
The original event was organised as a runway/rave/exhibition. As their name suggests, there is something distinctly youthful, girly and unpolished about their pieces. The designers heavily incorporate layering and DIY techniques such as upcycling to create highly stylised looks. Think Vivienne Westwood and Malcolm McLaren’s 1970s work, but contemporary, more femme – provocative and deconstructed.
All materials in their collection are sourced from their own wardrobes, charity shops or “scraps on the street”, emphasising how their resourcefulness is embedded within their visual language. Doll World describes their collective energy as a “warm neon colour” that creates a sense of fantasy and immerses their audience into their world.
Although things didn’t go as planned, the pair are now expanding their northern roots in London. They have no doubts, they assure us, about their future successes. “No one works harder or is as weird as us”.