Echoes of Duchamp: Deconstructing Fashion with PoetLab’s ‘Gentle(wo)man’
London Fashion Week AW25
Written by Penelope Bianchi, edited by Lily-Rose Morris-Zumin
PoetLab’s “Gentle(wo)man” collection, unveiled during London Fashion Week, is a daring proclamation on the fluidity of gender and the redefinition of modern masculinity. Under the creative direction of Giuseppe Iaciofano, the AW25 collection unfolded within the unconventional confines of Edith Neville Primary School’s gymnasium—a place typically echoing with the sounds of children’s daytime play, transformed into a venue of nocturnal creativity. Here, traditional boundaries were not just crossed, but completely reimagined. Rooted in the anti-conformist spirit of Dadaism, inspired by Marcel Duchamp’s revolutionary use of readymades, the collection challenged the sartorial status quo through garments that transform standard masculine attire into deconstructed, poetic creations.
Established in 2023 by designer and creative director Iaciofano, PoetLab has rapidly carved a niche in the London fashion landscape, redefining genderless luxury streetwear. The brand combines sharp geometric lines, understated simplicity, and bold, expansive shapes. Each piece is a strong expression of individuality and resilience, reflecting Iaciofano’s personal journey—including his battle with cancer and experiences with discrimination—woven into designs that challenge entrenched societal norms.
“Gentle(wo)man” leverages fashion as a medium to both articulate and celebrate fluid identities, encapsulating the essence of the brand perfectly. Echoing Duchamp’s approach of selecting ordinary, mass-produced objects and recontextualising them as art, the collection’s approach challenges the rigidity of traditional office menswear, infusing it with dynamic, sculptural forms that redefine the norms of aesthetic expression. Structured tailoring is a thing of the past; these are clothes for fluid dreamers, for those who navigate life fearlessly, striving to blend style with substance at every occasion.
The opening look features a striking combination of elements that play with volume, texture, and transparency. An oversized puffer bomber jacket adds a dramatic, sculptural quality to the outfit – its exaggerated puffiness contrasts sharply with the exposure of the model underneath. Adding a touch of classic menswear to the look, a tie hangs loosely around the neck. The choice of footwear, echoed throughout the collection, adds an unexpected twist with open-toe high heels that are boldly emblazoned in “FRAGILE” duct tape, serving as a commentary on vulnerability and strength.
‘Batwing shapes’ in the collection are re-envisioned with asymmetrical cuts and contrasting panels, disrupting the expected uniformity of menswear and sparking a visual conversation about the fluidity of gender. We see multiple looks with these shapes on the runway, all characterised by their voluminous and flowing design, with high necklines and full coverage gowns lending a classical and somewhat austere charm, sometimes softened by sheer fabric or exposed skin – this complex interplay between tradition and modernity suggests an exploration of identity that both conceals and reveals, allowing the wearer to navigate between privacy and exposure.
Shirting within the collection mixes traditional cotton with transparent materials, some sections deliberately left unfinished with frayed edges and exposed seams. Shirts are toyed with in a playful manner to create amusing looks; for example, we see the dramatic incorporation of a white sleeve from a men’s shirt, repurposed as a sort of oversized, decorative tie and an ensemble consisting of numerous white sleeves, intricately arranged to form a layered, cascading white dress that flows dynamically around the model’s figure. This innovative use of the sleeve challenges conventional garment construction by transforming a typically functional element into a prominent, sculptural detail.
The standout piece of the collection is an extraordinary dress adorned with hundreds of cable ties, each meticulously arranged to radiate outward, creating a visually arresting and dynamic silhouette. This inventive use of everyday materials transforms the cable ties into a form of wearable art that blurs the line between industrial and delicate aesthetics. The sharp, linear quality of the cable ties gives the dress an aggressive edge, reminiscent of a modern armor, while the pure white colour adds a layer of ethereal beauty. This dress, fabulously worn by RuPaul’s Drag Race UK star Tayce, not only challenges conventional garment construction but also illustrates the brand’s creativity in repurposing utilitarian objects into high fashion. It plays with contrasts—combining the harshness of cable ties with the soft, flowing arrangement of their placement, resulting in a piece that is both protective and strikingly graceful.
Sustainability clearly features prominently in “Gentle(wo)man,” with each piece crafted from repurposed deadstock fabrics. This approach not only highlights PoetLab’s environmental consciousness but also ensures that each garment carries unique, hand-finished details that emphasise individuality and craftsmanship. The collection extends this sustainable ethos to its footwear, incorporating shoes adorned with cable ties, mirroring the dress, and marked by “FRAGILE” duct tape, as seen in the first look, further emphasising the reuse of materials in innovative ways. The collection’s diverse use of fabrics and materials supports a broader theme of diversity and integration, reflecting a society that values myriad identities and a brand that celebrates ‘imperfection as a new standard of beauty.’
PoetLab’s “Gentle(wo)man” collection has redefined the boundaries of gender-neutral fashion, introducing new ways to express identity through apparel. Under Giuseppe Iaciofano’s creative direction, the collection merged traditional boundaries with radical ideas, mirroring Marcel Duchamp’s revolutionary art concepts. From reimagined shirting to the striking cable tie dress, each piece challenged norms by blending functionality with high fashion, making a bold statement about identity and defiance. The use of unconventional materials highlighted the brand’s commitment to innovation and sustainability, while the inventive footwear emphasised the collection’s exploration of identity—navigating the dynamics between strength and vulnerability. This collection clearly invites us to reconsider our perceptions of beauty and utility; while Duchamp’s readymade concept defies the traditional notion that art must be beautiful, Iaciofano’s creations achieve a striking aesthetic appeal, showcasing his expertise in making even the most banal everyday objects feel beguiling, elevating them to high fashion. This blend of the mundane with the exquisite not only challenges but also captivates, redefining beauty in the realm of fashion.
