From Moon Phases to Mindscapes: TUYUE’s Existentialist Fashion at Shanghai Fashion
Written by Francesca Nicolodi
My taxi dropped me at the Shanghai Fashion Show 30 minutes before the show, I skipped the queue and entered the VIP room where Ms. Yang Yingying was being interviewed. I was invited by Y’UNIQUE, a luxury boutique on 19 Air St London, W1B 5AG, also TUYUE’s sole distributor in the UK, a few weeks before setting foot for the first time in China. We quickly gobbled our caviar appetisers and grabbed two milk teas before hurrying to our front-row seats.
The show began with quiet references to the moon and its phases: gleaming lights shined on two men and two women imitating each other across the middle structure. On the runway, delicate gowns flowed on soft skin and lined figures. Slick hairstyles, sober colours, and long gowns reflected maturity, composure, and sophistication. Chinese influence was heavily present with the typical standing collars, deep reds, frog buttons, and gourds. The show concluded with a reappearance of the two men and women standing still, face to face, while a ghost-like figure with long white hair wearing a modern handful crossed them.
By the end, I already had my questions for Ms. Yang Yingying in the back of my head. Here is what came out of it: TUYUE 涂月
I have noticed that you preserve your Chinese inheritance within your contemporary design, especially from Chaoshan. Is this something that resonates with how you show up in the world? How do you and your brand blend in contemporary society while keeping a sense of identity? 您 在现代设计中保留了中国传统文化的影子，尤其是来自潮汕的特色。这是否反映了您对世界 的理解和呈现方式？您和您的品牌如何在保持身份认同的同时融入当代社会？
Creation must come from within to be truly authentic. Growing up in Chaoshan, a place where cultural traditions are remarkably well-preserved, everything about its heritage feels instinctively familiar to me. Engaging with Chaoshan culture is not just about preserving the past—it’s about bringing the traditions I grew up with into conversation with the present. It’s a personal connection that shapes my designs, allowing me to explore how these cultural roots can continue to live and evolve in a modern context.
In today’s globalized world, identity is fluid and ever-changing. For Tuyue and for myself, blending into contemporary society means respecting tradition without being bound by it. By reinterpreting cultural symbols and philosophies in ways that resonate with modern audiences, Tuyue encourages people to reconnect with their cultural roots while embracing self-expression. This is how we maintain a sense of identity while building meaningful connections with the world.
创作本身就是一种从内心出发的表达，只有这样才能做到真情实感。在潮汕长大，这里的文 化传统对我来说再熟悉不过了。潮汕是一个对传统保持得非常完整的地方，而我对这种文化 的感知并不仅仅是为了传承，而是想让它与当下发生对话。这种对话源于我个人的成长经历， 也贯穿于我的设计实践中，探索着如何让这些文化根源继续在现代语境中焕发新的活力。 在全球化的语境下，身份认同是流动而不断演变的。对我和涂月来说，融入当代社会的方式， 是以尊重传统而不受其束缚的态度来创作。通过重新诠释文化符号与哲学，让涂月的设计能 与现代观众产生共鸣，鼓励他们重新发现自己的文化根源，同时拥抱自我表达的自由。这是 我们在保持身份认同的同时，与世界建立深层次联系的方式。
Every one of us has a deep relationship with what we wear. When you think about your clothes: who is wearing them, what are they doing, and where are they? 每个人与所穿衣物之间都有 深厚的联系。当您想到自己的设计时：谁在穿它们？他们在做什么？又身处何地？
I believe that the people who wear Tuyue are those with a refined sense of aesthetics and a deep respect for the world. They understand why they choose a particular garment and genuinely value and cherish the clothes they wear. These individuals are thoughtful in their choices, recognizing the stories behind the fabrics and designs, and they approach fashion with a sense of responsibility and care. Their presence transcends specific settings—whether at serene museums, engaging in meaningful conversations, reading in the comfort of their home, or attending gatherings, they carry an innate awareness of their surroundings.
Tuyue’s designs support this attitude of independent aesthetics and mindful living. We aim to create enduring pieces that minimize environmental impact while inspiring wearers to treasure their clothing. By imbuing each piece with meaning, we encourage a more thoughtful approach to consumption. In this way, fashion becomes more than personal expression—it evolves into a dialogue of harmony and respect with the environment.
我认为穿着涂月的人，是那些对审美有高要求，同时对世界保持敬意的人。他们清楚自己为 何选择某件衣服，真正尊重并喜爱自己所穿的衣物。这些人对自己的选择非常用心，了解面 料和设计背后的故事，在与时尚的关系中也怀有一种责任感与关怀。 他们的存在并不局限于特定的场景——无论是在宁静的博物馆里，深入对话中，或是在家中 静静阅读，甚至在聚会中，他们始终展现对环境与当下的敏锐感知。涂月的设计支持这种独 立审美与用心生活的态度。我们希望在尽量减少环境负担的同时，打造经久耐用的作品。通 过为每件衣物赋予意义，我们鼓励一种更加深思熟虑的消费方式。如此一来，时尚不再仅仅 是个人表达，而是与环境和谐共处的一种对话。
With the world crumbling under the rising heat, flooding, and environmental catastrophes, how has your Fur Free Retailer initiative with ActAsia helped preserve our fragile planet? 在全球 因气候变暖、洪水和环境灾难而面临危机的背景下，您与 ActAsia 合作的“零皮草零售商” 计划在保护我们脆弱的地球方面发挥了怎样的作用？
Choosing to go “Fur Free” is not merely a matter of animal welfare —it’s also a profound commitment to environmental preservation. The fur industry is not only cruel but also highly polluting and energy-intensive. The chemical processes involved in fur tanning leave lasting damage to soil and water resources, contributing directly to the climate crisis and environmental disasters we face today.
Our collaboration with ActAsia in promoting the “Fur Free Retailer” initiative represents a significant step in reshaping the fashion industry. Through this effort, we aim to raise awareness among consumers about the environmental and ethical cost of fur production and encourage brands and individuals to reexamine the relationship between fashion and nature.
For me, “Fur Free” is not just a principle; it is a symbol of respect for ecology and responsibility for the future. I believe fashion can be gentle and harmonious—a celebration of coexistence, not exploitation. As more brands join this movement, we take one step closer to a truly sustainable future.
选择“零皮草”并不仅仅是出于对动物福利的考虑，它同样是对环境的深切关怀。皮草产业 不仅残忍，还伴随着高污染、高能耗的问题。皮草鞣制过程中使用的化学物质会对土壤和水 资源造成持久的污染，这与我们当前面对的气候危机和自然灾害是密切相关的。 与 ActAsia 合作推动“零皮草零售商”计划，是我们在时尚产业中迈出的重要一步。通过这 一倡议，我们不仅让更多消费者意识到皮草生产对地球和生命的伤害，也希望通过引导时尚 行业向无害和可持续方向发展，让更多品牌和消费者重新审视时尚与自然的关系。
对我来说，“零皮草”不仅是一种理念，更是一个象征，它代表着对生态的尊重和对未来的 责任。我相信时尚可以是温柔的，可以是一种尊重万物共生的表达，而非以自然与生命为代 价的豪奢品。当更多品牌加入这一行动时，我们便离真正的可持续未来更近了一步。
Your style is a blend of chic, traditional, and rebellious. Does it reflect your personality, or is it a model for yourself and others to embody? 您的风格融合了时尚、传统和叛逆，这是否反映 了您的个人特质，还是为自己和他人塑造了一个追求的理想形象？
My style is an interplay of personal experiences, cultural heritage, and societal reflections. In many ways, it mirrors my inner world, but more importantly, it seeks to convey a broader message: that individuality, tradition, and rebellion are not contradictions but a harmonious balance.
I’ve always approached convention with a degree of scepticism. Rebellion, for me, is not about defiance for its own sake but about breaking through and rebuilding after deep contemplation. Tradition, on the other hand, provides a cultural foundation—a sense of identity and belonging. Fashion, then, serves as a bridge, allowing me to connect personal expression with collective memory. This style is both a dialogue with myself and with the world.
As for whether it creates an aspirational model for others, I’d rather see it as an inspiration than a blueprint. I hope that wearing Tuyue’s designs helps people recognize their own strength and freedom and encourages them to forge their unique relationships with tradition, individuality, and the world. Fashion shouldn’t be about imitation; it should be a tool for unlocking each person’s inner creativity.
我的风格是个人经历、文化积淀与社会观察的交织体，它确实在某种程度上反映了我的内心。 但更重要的是，它试图传递一种更广泛的思考——让穿着者感受到**个性、传统与叛逆并非 矛盾，而是一种平衡的可能性**。
我个人一直对常规事物抱有一定的反思态度。叛逆并不是简单地反对，而是深思熟虑后的突 破与重建。传统则是一种文化的根基，它赋予我安全感与身份认同。时尚则像是桥梁，让我 能够在表达自我与承载集体记忆之间找到交汇点。所以，这种风格既是一种自我表达，也是 一种与世界对话的方式。
至于是否为他人塑造了某种追求的形象，我更希望它是一种启发，而非模板。我希望人们穿 上涂月的服装后，能够更清晰地感知自己的力量与自由，并用他们自己的方式与传统、个性 和世界建立独特的联系。时尚不应该是用来模仿的，而是用来激发每个人内在创造力的工具。
TUYUE SS23 Collection
Your SS23 collection blends individualism, wisdom, and sharpness to explore the role of intelligence in fashion. You cited Simone de Beauvoir as your muse—how did her theory inspire you? 您的 2023 春夏系列融合了个性化、智慧与锐利的元素，探索了智力在时尚中的作用。 您提到波伏娃是您的灵感来源之一——她的理论是如何启发您的？
Simone de Beauvoir’s “serious world” theory has deeply influenced me. She pointed out that our world has long been shaped by rigid social rules, which people follow unconsciously without questioning their meaning. This unquestioning adherence causes many to lose the freedom to explore their true selves. Her emphasis on freedom inspired me to use fashion as a medium to break these constraints and rediscover the essence of individuality. Thus, I constructed a “New Beautiful World”—a world that respects individual existence and will.
In my SS23 collection, this inspiration manifests in the exploration of “intelligence.” Intelligence is not merely cold rationality; it is the ability to discern social rules and the courage to challenge them.
De Beauvoir advocated for finding love and respect in shared humanity while maintaining individual uniqueness. This made me reflect on how fashion can strike such a delicate balance. As a result, this collection aims to redefine the meaning of clothing. I hope that when people wear these pieces, they not only feel a sense of external strength but also experience an awakening of inner thought and awareness.
In my designs, I particularly emphasise the balance between freedom and relationships. For this reason, I explored this concept through gender-neutral bridalwear, allowing“wearers to be not merely participants in social rules but also observers and re-creators of those rules.”
For me, fashion is not just a tool to create beauty—it is a dialogue with rules and a collision of ideas. It transcends visual aesthetics and becomes a medium for expressing thought and conveying values.
波伏娃的“严肃世界”理论对我有深刻的影响。她指出，我们生活的世界早已被既定的社会 规则所固化，人们遵循这些规则行事，却很少质疑它们的意义。这种无意识的遵循，使得许 多人丧失了对自由与真实自我的探索。而她对自由的强调，启发我用时尚作为一种媒介，去 打破这些规则的束缚，寻找个体真正的意义。因此我构建了一个「美丽新世界」，一个尊重 个体存在和意志的世界。
在我的 SS23 系列中，这种启发表现在对“智力”的探索上。智力并不仅仅是冷静的理性， 而是一种对社会规则的洞察力，以及勇于质疑它们的勇气。
波伏娃提倡在共性中找到爱与尊重，同时保持个体的独特性。这让我思考，我们如何在时尚 中找到这种微妙的平衡？因此，这一系列试图重新定义服装的意义。我希望人们在穿着这些 衣服时，不仅能感受到外在的力量感，还能激发内在的思考与觉醒。
在设计中，我还特别强调了自由与关系的平衡，所以我用去性别化的婚纱探索了这种理念， 「穿衣者不仅仅是社会规则的参与者，更是规则的观察者与重塑者」。
对于我而言，时尚不仅仅是一种创造美的工具，更是一场与规则对话、与思想碰撞的游戏。 它不仅仅是视觉上的美感，也是一种表达思想、传递价值的方式。
What message did you deliver by making your brand about the cultivation of the mind? 通过 打造一个关注心智培养的品牌，您想传达怎样的讯息？
Thank you for defining my work as “cultivating the mind.” While I hadn’t explicitly framed it this way at the beginning of my creative process, it resonates deeply with my vision for Tuyue.
I have always believed that fashion is not just about external appearances but also an internal tool for reflection and expression. Its meaning should go beyond following trends to create a profound connection between the wearer and their identity, values, and emotions. Behind Tuyue’s designs lies my observation of society and humanity, as well as my hope to inspire deeper contemplation about the essence of life through clothing.
My last collection explored the relationships between people, particularly how we can find love and respect within shared commonalities while preserving individual uniqueness. This is not just a question for fashion but also an ideal state for society. I hope my designs can evoke awareness in wearers about the act of “choosing”—choosing an outfit is not merely functional but also an expression of beauty, values, and responsibility.
Perhaps through fashion, we can rethink our relationship with the world and even redefine our way of life. The ultimate purpose of fashion is not external decoration but nourishment and inspiration for the deeper aspects of existence.
谢谢你提出“关注心智培养”这个定义。虽然在创作之初我并没有明确这样概括，但确实非 常贴近我对涂月的理解。
我始终相信，时尚不仅是关于外在的表现，更是一个内在的反思和表达工具。它的意义不应 该局限于迎合潮流，而是通过服装与个体的身份、价值和情感建立深刻的联系。涂月的设计 背后，隐藏着我对社会和人的观察，以及希望通过服装引发更多对生活本质的思考。 上一季的系列探讨了人与人之间的关系，特别是如何在共性中找到爱与尊重，同时保留个体 的独特性。这不仅仅是时尚的命题，也是社会的一种理想状态。我希望通过设计，唤起穿着 者对“选择”这一行为的觉知——选择一件衣服不仅仅是功能性的，更是一种对美感、价值 和责任的表达。
也许我们可以通过时尚，去重新思考人与世界的关系，甚至重新定义自己的生活方式。时尚 的终极意义，不是外在的装饰，而是对生命深层的滋养与启发。
TUYUE SS25 Collection
Your SS25 collection is themed “Saros: The Dance of Moon Phases.”How come you decided to focus on the moon’s phases? Has this new focus anything to do with what you are going through in your own life? 您的 2025 春夏系列主题为“沙罗周期：月相之舞”。为什么您选择聚焦于 月亮的周期？这个主题是否与您自身生活中的经历有关？
The Saros Cycle is an incredible example of the universe’s rhythm—an astronomical phenomenon that ties together time, motion, and balance on a grand scale. I’ve always been fascinated by the patterns of the cosmos and how they reflect a sense of order even within what seems chaotic. This collection is my way of exploring those universal rhythms and connecting them to the cycles we experience as individuals.
The moon’s phases, on the other hand, represent the intimate aspects of our lives—our emotions, growth, and transitions. While the Saros Cycle reflects the vastness of the cosmos, the moon phases draw our attention inward, inviting us to reflect on personal cycles. This theme resonates with me because it aligns with my curiosity about how the macrocosm and microcosm are intertwined. Through this collection, I hope to invite wearers to embrace their personal transformations while finding inspiration in the greater rhythms of the universe.
沙罗周期展现了宇宙的节奏——一种将时间、运动与平衡联系在一起的天文现象，它展示了 在看似混乱中如何存在秩序。我一直对宇宙的规律着迷，这些规律让我感受到宏观世界的节 奏与联系。这一系列是我探索这些普遍节奏，同时将其与个体循环相连接的一种方式。 而月相则代表了我们生活中更亲密的层面——情绪、成长与过渡。如果说沙罗周期反映了宇 宙的广袤宏大，那么月相则引导我们向内审视，邀请我们思考个人的循环。这一主题与我有 着深刻的共鸣，因为它契合了我对宏观与微观如何交织的好奇心。通过这个系列，我希望穿 着者能拥抱自己的个人转变，同时从宇宙的伟大节奏中汲取灵感。
Do you think that we live cyclically? What significance do you give to the moon? Does its colour mean anything to you? 您认为我们的生活是循环往复的吗？您如何看待月亮的意义？它的 颜色对您来说有什么特殊含义吗？
Life is undoubtedly cyclical, reflecting patterns of growth, rest, and renewal. The moon is a perfect metaphor for this rhythm, but what captivates me most is the duality between its appearance and its essence. The moon itself is grey—neutral and reflective. Its different colors are projections of external light, shaped by perspective and context.
This duality reminds me of existentialist philosophy: our existence is inherently neutral, but the meaning we derive comes from our interactions with the world. Spiritually, the moon represents the concept of “being illuminated.” It does not generate light but reflects it. Similarly, our experiences often mirror external influences, but our inner awareness determines how we interpret and respond to them. From this perspective, the changing colours of the moon remind us that our perception shapes our reality. For me, it’s an invitation to embrace the neutrality of existence and to observe without attachment, echoing the Buddhist teachings on awareness. The moon’s grey essence, untouched by its external hues, symbolizes clarity and equanimity amidst life’s fluctuations.
生活无疑是循环的，体现了成长、休憩与更新的模式。而月亮则是这种节奏的完美隐喻，但 让我着迷的是它外在显现与本质之间的二元性。月亮本身是灰色的——中立且具有反射性。 它的不同颜色来源于外界光线的投射，由视角与环境共同塑造。
这种二元性让我想起存在主义的观点：我们的存在本质上是中立的，但我们从中获得的意义， 却由我们的选择与外部世界的互动共同决定。从更灵性层面看，月亮象征着“被照见”的概 念。它并不发光，而是反射太阳的光辉。同样地，我们的经历往往反映外部环境，但我们的 内在觉知决定了我们如何解读与应对这些经历。从这个角度来看，月亮的颜色变化提醒我们， 是我们的感知创造了我们的现实。对我来说，这是一个邀请，去接受“存在”的中立性，并以一种无执的态度去观察，这与佛学中关于“觉知”的教义不谋而合。月亮灰色的本质，不 被外界色彩所扰动，象征了在生命起伏中的清晰与平静。
Could you tell readers a little more about this new collection? How would you like our readers to imagine this new collection? 您能否向读者多谈谈这个全新系列？您希望读者如何想象这 一系列？
This new collection, themed “Saros: The Dance of Moon Phases,” delves not only into the cyclical changes of the moon but also explores humanity’s place within the rhythms of the universe and the inner growth that mirrors these cycles. From the macro rhythms of the cosmos to the micro reflections of human emotions, this collection seeks to find resonance between the two.
The designs draw inspiration from the changing shapes of the moon phases, reflected in flowing lines and soft gradient colours that capture the dynamic beauty of moonlight on the ocean. Materials such as silk, organza, and chiffon are used to represent the luminosity and layers of the moon, while intricate hand embroidery—crafted using traditional heritage techniques—highlights the interplay of light and shadow across its surface.
The runway installation extends and amplifies the themes of this collection. Large circular structures made from recycled materials symbolize the cycles and overlaps of time. Under shifting lights, these circles cast dynamic shadows, creating the sensation of stepping into a flowing time portal. The choice of twin models reinforces the concept of parallel dimensions while also representing humanity’s duality—the way we are shaped both by the rhythms of the universe and by our emotions and choices.
I want readers to imagine this collection as more than just clothing. It’s an experience that invites them to feel the flow of time and emotions. This collection serves as both a visual and an introspective dialogue, encouraging everyone to embrace the cycles of life, to perceive the changes, and to explore how these transformations shape our connection with the world.
这个新系列以“沙罗周期：月相之舞”为主题，它不仅关注月亮周期本身的变化，更试图探 讨人在宇宙节奏中的位置，以及人类内心的成长与反思。这次的设计从宇宙的宏观节奏到人 类的微观情感，试图找到它们之间的共鸣。
服装的设计灵感取材于月相变化的形态，从流动的线条到柔和的渐变色彩，都体现了月光洒 在海面上的那种动态之美。材质选择了丝绸、纱和薄纱等轻盈的面料，以此表现月亮的光泽 与层次。系列中特别加入了手工刺绣的细节，以非物质文化遗产的传统技艺诠释月亮的光影 和节奏。
秀场装置则是本次系列的延伸和升华。我们使用了可回收材料制作了几个大型圆环，这些圆 环象征时间的循环和重叠。每个圆环在灯光的照射下都呈现出不同的光影效果，仿佛带观众 进入一个流动的时间通道。模特方面，我选择了双胞胎模特，这不仅象征平行时空的概念， 也暗示了人类内心的两面性——我们既追随宇宙的节奏，也被自身的情感和选择所塑造。 我希望读者在想象这个系列时，能看到的不仅是服装本身，更是一种感受时间和情感流动的 体验。这个系列是一场视觉与内心的双重对话，鼓励大家去感知生命中的变化、循环，以及 这些变化如何塑造我们与外界的连接。
Acknowledgement
I am deeply thankful to Ms. Yang Yingying for giving me the opportunity to engage with her and listen to her insightful perspectives. My heartfelt thanks also go to Y’UNIQUE for inviting me to the TUYUE runway at the Shanghai Fashion Show and facilitating my interview with Ms Yang. It was truly an honour.
我深深感谢杨莹莹女士给予我这个机会与她交流，并聆听她富有洞见的观点。同时，我也衷 心感谢 Y’UNIQUE 邀请我参加上海时装秀的 TUYUE 大秀，并促成我对杨女士的采访。这是一 份真正的荣幸。
