UDGN Upholds Emerging Designers Once Again at LFW

When fashion feels so fast-paced and the industry doesn’t quite give emerging designers the space that they always need to be showcased, UDGN steps in. Born from the idea to reimagine “what fashion success looks like”, the Unity in Design Global Network ensures the voices of new fashion creatives are heard, with a primary focus on inclusion and sustainability. 

Tare Isaac, the mind and founder behind this established corporation, is a designer themselves, while also standing as a member of the British Fashion Council and a Global Talent Visa Recipient for their outstanding work within the industry. For UDGN designers, their work has been uplifted, and a light shone upon them for their creativity, allowing them to stand on this step and further develop their emerging labels into the full force of fashion they’re born to be. 

Motunrayo (Motunrayo Ajayi) 

Motunrayo’s Spring/Summer 2026 collection, “Of Water and Spirit”, is primarily centred around the Nigerian Osun festival. A time where people come together to honour Osun, the goddess of fertility, love, and healing. The garments, a flurry of yellow, flow with a quiet strength, marrying ritual references with fresh, wearable silhouettes. It felt celebratory yet grounded, with a definitive nod to tradition while stepping firmly into the present. A standout look crowned that feeling: a molten-gold headpiece with a neat yellow bandeau, trousers and jacket, fringe moving like water. Beadwork wasn’t decoration so much as currency and memory, turning the runway into ceremony. 

AYAH (Ebimobowei Daukoru Ayah) 

Designer Ebimobowei Daukoru Ayah presented their latest collection for his namesake brand AYAH, “A Fisherman’s Echo”, diving into his roots and drawing inspiration from the riverside life of the Niger Delta where he grew up. Telling stories from the creeks and taking note from the fishing community of his home town of Bayelsa, he says, “everything comes from the earth around there,” in an interview with UDGN ahead of his runway show. On the catwalk, nature was reframed through a masculine lens, relaxed but deliberate cuts, fishnet veils and overlays that hinted at an ecosystem scarred yet dignified. Wide legs moved like tides; kimono drapes held their stillness; an earthy wash of riverbed greens and browns grounded it all. Cowries threaded through mesh lent something almost priestly, while dyed cotton carried watermark traces, softness and strength, catch and release, resilience rather than despair. 

Zubérè (Nancy Chizubere Johnson-Chidiadi) 

“The Woman’s Homecoming” is Zubérè’s answer to the Igbo bride’s ceremonial entrance. A collection based upon glamour and elegance. Honouring matriarchal lineage through flowing silhouettes, radiant detailing, and a palette that bridges ancestral tradition with modern sophistication. With each piece capturing the power and grace of feminine arrival. Layered raffia swung like dancing skirts, coral trims framed necklines and sleeves, and a custom lion motif turned one look into bride-as-guardian, ritual translated for the present without losing its authority.

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Midetush (Olumide Oyewumi) 

Olumide Oyewumi, the creative behind Midetush’s SS26 collection, took a fresh approach to summer wear, incorporating stripes and breathable, lightweight textures that are inspired by the designer’s Yoruba culture. The pieces balance tradition with a relaxed modernity, offering clothes that feel effortless yet deeply connected to heritage. Titled AFEFE ATI ILA (air and stripes), the line breathed, oversized but intentional. A jacket-and-trouser set in orange, blue and tan set the rhythm, cowries at the collar as quiet amulets, with yellow-striped separates ready for long, hot days. Streetwear with soul, roaming from Lagos to London. 

Bola (Bola Sulleman) 

Echoing Regency was on the design checklist for Bola’s creative director, Bola Sulleman, who drew from the colours and fashion of the Ojude Oba Festival. The collection captures a sense of elevated community, where ceremony and style merge into pieces that feel alive with culture and timeless elegance. Under the title Inheritance, Sulleman leaned into stillness and longevity, Aso Oke rendered in navy, cornflower and gold stripes, cuts that flatter without noise. Clothes meant to be kept, shared, and passed on: heirlooms more than moments. 

KP Footwear (Kolapo Omoyoloye – KAYPEE) 

“Legacy Underfoot” is the title of emerging footwear designer KP Footwear’s SS26 collection. Symbolising the rural terrain of Yorubaland, the pieces salute generational grounding, blending the creative’s cultural heritage with fine-cut clothes that catch the eye. It honours tradition while shaping a modern path forward. Guided by the spirit of ÀPÁTA (stone), loafers and mules felt rooted, leather etched like footprints and rain-worn roads. A royal yellow-and-red pair read as near-ceremonial, rich and tactile, the kind of shoe that remembers where it’s been. 

A model walks a runway for emerging designers, wearing a red striped hat, a black tank top, loose black pants, and red striped shoes, carrying a large black bag.

Jermaine Bleu (Jason Jermaine Asiedu) 

Jermaine Bleu showcased “Twa Me Foto (Take My Photo)”, a celebration of individuality and the art of intentional dressing. With nostalgic colours and a romantic touch, the collection evokes timeless moments and the joy of personal style, capturing its essence in moments meant to last forever. 

Robes and Blings by Akokomali (Olaitan Maria Olatoke) 

Olaitan Maria Olatoke, the force behind Robes and Blings by Akokomali, presented “TIWA N TIWA (Ours is Ours)”, a transformative collection that reclaims the white cloth ritual once used to judge purity. Through evocative tailoring and rich textures, the designs turn tradition into a symbol of resistance, redefining ritual as empowerment. The opening, a sheer red robe pooling into sculptural tulle, set the tone. Coral and cowries worked like talismans across looks, with a floor-length white beaded dress drawing breath for its restraint. Grandeur, yes, but always intimate. 

Lekan Aare 

Lekan Aare’s “Homage to the King” revisits Yoruba nobility through a contemporary lens. The collection’s structural forms and opulent textiles reframe society’s perception of masculine elegance, crafting a wardrobe that feels both stately and refreshingly modern. True to its name, an homage, the five looks used pinstripes as insignia rather than office code, bending with the body. A white suit with a single royal-blue sash-stripe read like instant nobility; butterfly-fanned sleeves balanced precision with play, ceremony, edited for today. 

PEM (Princess Mary Obeya) 

Princess Mary Obeya of the label PEM unveiled “The Spirit Wears Red”, an ode to Idoma women. Crimson tones and layered silhouettes bring the collection to life, celebrating generational beauty and strength, all while transforming heritage into designs that feel ceremonial and unapologetically alive. Under its full title, IRI OGRINIA – The Spirit Wears Red, fringe and cowries kept time, while a backless gingham dress with a folded, sculptural skirt added a sharp contemporary edge. The whole thing moved like choreography. 

OOMO AJADI (Yusuf Kareem) 

Yusuf Kareem’s OOMO AJADI debuted “White Race: The Eco Spirit Walks”, drawing inspiration from Lagos Island’s Elo Masquerade. Ethereal and minimal, the collection translates spiritual tradition into wearable language, where the folds and drapes become the creative’s sacred gesture, marrying ritual with a contemporary focus. Models, veiled in white, processed like spirits; one struck the ground with an opá staff, order and dignity made visible. The quiet cuts carried deep symbolism, turning the runway into a measured, sacred walk. 

OBIREEN (Salami Oluwaseun) 

Salami Oluwaseun of OBIREEN presented “Okpa n’Iyoba – Strength of a Queen”, channeling the regal legacy of Queen Idia of Benin. Traditional royal motifs are woven into modern ceremonial wear, creating pieces that speak to heritage while commanding the present with quiet authority and definitive poise. Deep coral reds and burgundies echoed sacred beads; satin caught the light like regalia. One sweeping skirt breathed with every step, beadwork tracing bodices like protective charms. The Lagos atelier’s precision, born of shoemaking discipline, made each seam part of a longer story of power and legacy. 

A model walks a runway for emerging designers in a bold, shiny red tiered ruffle gown with a fitted, corset-style bodice. Her hair is styled in an elaborate updo, and she accessorizes with red earrings and bracelets.

The Ideal Craftsman (Olutoba Odetomi) 

Olutoba Odetomi’s “The Five” for The Ideal Craftsman fused Yoruba spirituality with contemporary menswear. Drawing inspiration from five orishas, the collection balances tailored classics with symbolic references, creating designs that carry cultural depth while asserting a quiet, commanding presence. Weighted bell sleeves, angled shoulders and, memorably, a suit paired with a sword and silver facial jewellery pushed the suit into the mythic. An all-white look skimmed the body with near sci-fi grace. Precision tailoring, made strange again. 

ANKU (Kelvin Vincent) 

Kelvin Vincent of ANKU showcased “Woven Stories”, a collection tracing his ancestry across the Ewe and Akan peoples. Through layered textures and tonal interplay, the garments tell a story of intergenerational wisdom, weaving cultural pride and personal narrative into each and every stitch. 

ITELE (Seyi Agboola) 

Seyi Agboola’s ITELE collection, “Freedom”, charts Nigeria’s journey from colonial rule to independence. Bold silhouettes and rich textiles mark resilience and national pride, transforming history into a wearable celebration. This collection is where unity, strength, and self-determination are stitched into every piece. It also repositions the loafer, long a British staple, as a vessel for African storytelling: bees, badge emblems and stacks of currency embroidered with wit, silver-studded moments for pause. The shoes had the nerve and polish to demand a new conversation about who leads in craft. 

TWIN BY TARE (Tare Isaac) 

Tare Isaac of TWIN BY TARE presented “The Water Bearer”, a fluid and richly beaded collection paying tribute to the Ijaw people’s connection to the sea and their fishing heritage. Each piece moves with a graceful energy, capturing feminine power in weaving ancestral stories. A sea-blue gown glazed with jewels shimmered like light on water, clean triangular cut-outs keeping it firmly current. A white net dress, studded with shells and beads, rustled audibly, like shore-break translated into fabric. The runway felt like a river you could step into. 

The show was a success. Allowing UDGN to showcase presentations yet again from emerging designers, giving them a platform and an audience to listen to their stories and marvel in their designs. Drawing from cultural associations like annual festivals and the regality of their home nations, designers celebrated their roots, looking forward into their careers as growing artists with intentional designs that reflect who they are as creatives. 

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