It’s been a turbulent lead-up to Dario Vitale’s long-awaited debut at Versace, with audiences unsure of how his vision would align with one of Italy’s most iconic fashion houses. For Spring/Summer 2026, Vitale made it clear that his focus was unapologetic sex appeal. The runway was dominated by hoisted-up, high-waisted trousers provocatively unfastened at the fly, exposing flashes of what lay beneath; white briefs, of course. What else could it be?
The effect was cheeky, subversive, and undeniably provocative, a wink to Gianni’s era when daring sensuality defined the brand’s DNA. Online, reactions were divided: some critics baulked at the looks and their “misalignment” with the brand’s style, while others admitted, almost sheepishly, that they were drawn to the collection’s audacity. Far from a timid debut, Vitale’s approach felt like a deliberate reclaiming of Versace’s legacy, irresistibly seductive.
Colour didn’t run thin within Vitale’s collection. Pinstripe green and yellow trousers shared the runway with daring red leather handbags, while a teal, belted argyle-print dress offered a modern nod to Claudia Schiffer’s iconic SS24 runway gown, who made her surprise appearance earlier in the season. The show also featured unexpected colour clashes–think cobalt blue blazer meets peppermint-hued suit trousers–combinations that surprised and even challenged the eye, yet somehow felt entirely intentional within Vitale’s vision.
Despite these adventurous pairings, there were plenty of standout pieces that felt immediately covetable. Sleek leather jackets, tarnished leather shoes, accessorised ties, statement necklaces, bold belts, and ornate brooches all commanded attention without relying solely on shock. The collection balanced the provocative with the wearable, proving that Vitale really can both play with spectacle and deliver pieces worth investing in… and I’m all for that.
In all honesty, whatever your opinion of Dario Vitale’s debut collection, isn’t a little fuss exactly what fashion is meant to provoke? We crave novelty, bold contrasts, and moments that make us stop and say, “Wow.” Vitale delivered all of that: the colour clashes, the daring cuts, the unexpected flourishes, creating a sense of theatre and emotion that few shows manage to capture. Not every look will resonate with every viewer, but there is undeniable beauty in witnessing a designer unapologetically embrace their vision. In a world often dominated by safe iterations, Vitale’s debut felt fresh, raw, and authentically him, a reminder that fashion’s true power lies in its ability to surprise and inspire future collection.