Exploring Belonging and Identity in Sum London’s SS25 Collection
Fashion is a powerful medium. You don't always need words to show who you are - you can show it through clothing
Margaret Sam, the founder and designer behind Sum London, believes that ‘Fashion is a powerful medium. You don’t always have to speak to show who you are — you can show it through clothing.’ This statement rang true in her latest Homebound SS25 collection, presented at the Museum of the Home. It was a fitting location for a show where the concept of home — both as a place and a feeling — was explored through her designs.
The collection’s title Homebound carries a dual meaning, as Sam explained. It reflects both the search for home and the feeling of being bound by it. On one hand, it represents Sam’s personal diasporic journey of seeking home, shaped by her experience of feeling ‘not quite Chinese enough’ and ‘not quite British enough’ through her dual heritage. On the other hand, Homebound also emphasizes that home can be a place of comfort and connection, where a sense of belonging can be found through various means. This tension between seeking and being bound by home is the central theme in this collection.
Sam drew visual inspiration from images of her father’s wardrobe, spanning his teenage years in Singapore until his migration to Britain in his twenties. ‘Menswear is my medium,’ she notes, ‘and naturally, I look to my father’s wardrobe.’ His journey—from Singapore to Britain—mirrors the collections notion that home is not just a place but a feeling, one that evolves with time and circumstance.
The collection traces her father’s clothing through three distinct stages of his life: his early years in Singapore, his studies in London, and his career, where tailored suits became a defining feature. Elements like pinstripes and crisp white shirts evoke these eras, while modern touches infuse the designs with a contemporary London sensibility. This blend of traditional British menswear with streetwear bridges Eastern influences with classic styles. ‘I created tracksuits and brought contemporary British streetwear into what I feel is Eastern and classic menswear,’ Sam explains. ‘By fusing these British, Chinese, and mixed cultural heritage ideas, we’re telling a story about real people.’
The 19 looks featured a colour palette of whites, greys, greens, blues, browns, and denim and were presented by models of mixed Malaysian, Korean, and British heritage.
Standout pieces included a martial arts tracksuit that combined traditional Chinese design with modern streetwear, and oversized hakama pants made from contemporary materials like denim, adding a cool, modern edge. The collection was marked by its clean lines, showcasing a seamless integration of traditional and contemporary styles.
As the first British Chinese show in London Fashion Week, the Homebound SS25 collection serves as a thoughtful exploration of how heritage shapes our understanding of home and identity. By weaving together British and Eastern influences, Margaret Sam reflects on the fluidity of belonging, showing that home can evolve alongside us. The collection captures the dynamic interplay of tradition and modernity, offering a powerful reflection on what it means to honour where you come from while embracing where you’re going.
