Across central Asia, the Next Designer Award empowered by Visa, hosts an annual competition for young emerging designers. This year they attracted over 400 applicants with only 16 being selected as finalists. Born in Kazakhstan, Akbota Kasymbek made her way to the final of the competition with her brand Gazhaiyip.
Gazhaiyip’s collection, Kökpar, is rooted in Kazakh heritage and nomadic culture. The collection’s name derives from a traditional Kazakh game played on horseback. There is a strong equestrian theme that runs throughout Kasymbek’s work, through the use of horsehair detailing, braiding and Kökpar inspired headwear.
With an earthy colour palette, the overall aesthetic is rugged and raw. This emanates feelings of strength and confidence – something which is equally observable when watching the sport that is this collection’s inspiration. Ksymbek mixes traditional and contemporary elements to construct avant-garde silhouettes. Her use of contrasting materials with statement accessories creates a tactile quality. Through layering, she has created a sense of rigidity with a powerful masculine energy that again harkens back to her nomadic muses.
The Cold Magazine sat down with Akbota Kasymbek to find out more about her practice, her dreams for the future and the importance of representing the Kazakh identity on a global platform.
The Cold Magazine (CM): How would you describe your brand, Gazhaiyip?
Akbota Kasymbek (AK): In Kazakh, the name Gazhaiyip means miracle, which means magic. I named it Gazhaiyip because during my childhood this was something I really believed in. Even until now, if you trust in something it can really happen which really motivates me to do more.
CM: Your work is heavily inspired by Kökpar, can you tell us what it is about Kökpar that influences you? What does it represent beyond the visual aesthetics?
AK: Kökpar is a Kazakh traditional sport. In the past, it prepared men for war and to be strong. To me, it is not just a game, it is a sport with a deep history. Traditionally it built strength but people still play it today during celebrations and important events. It’s played on horse and to be honest it is such a dangerous game. On horse you have to ride and catch the ‘god’ which is a carcass. The Kökpar players are so unique, they have their own character and they are so strong. The game looks sort of unusual.
CM: Your work explores Kazakh identity — what does this mean to you as a young designer today?
AK: For me, Kazakh identity is something very personal, I was born in Kazakhstan and I was raised here. Kazakh culture will always be with me and a part of me. As a young designer, it makes me different and I want to show the beauty of my culture in my work.
CM: What about your culture are you translating in your work?
AK: I think I translate elements from past traditional Kazakh clothing but make it modern. I want to show the emotions. I don’t want to copy the traditional clothes but I want to be inspired by them in the present.
CM: Can you tell us more about your creative process, from initial concepts to the final look?
AK: Firstly, I chose the theme and the inspiration. From that I do research and make moodboards and research books with varying textures and colours and photographs. Then I start to sketch and construct the forms. Then I watch my ideas come to life.
CM: What do you find most challenging about your design practice?
AK: Probably starting. But also the sewing, because it is not always easy to turn an idea into reality [laughs].
CM: How would you describe the Gazhaiyip aesthetic?
AK: I would describe it as avant-garde and expressive. I don’t like simple forms and simple clothes so I’m trying to lean into avant garde.
CM: What has being part of the Next Designer Award meant for you?
AK: It means a lot, it’s a big step. And it’s been a great opportunity to grow and show my vision. I’m really thankful to the organisers.
CM: How important are platforms like this for emerging designers from Central Asia and do you feel there’s growing global interest in Central Asian fashion?
AK: Platforms like this are really important for designers who are starting out their career. In central asia, fashion is really growing. In the next designer award I saw so many designers who make amazing clothes.
CM: You talk about themes of resilience and struggle within your work — how personal is this within your practice?
AK: This is really personal to me and when you look at Kökpar, it shows us struggle and resilience. I see in Kökpar a philosophy of life because of how they fight with each other and want to win which translates to real life – we live in struggle.
CM: What’s something you want people to feel when they see your collection?
AK: I want people to feel something real. I want them to feel the beauty of the Kazakh identity. In this collection, I want them to feel the energy of Kökpar. I really want my clothes to have a deep meaning.
CM: What is next for Gazhaiyip? How do you see your brand and your work evolving in the future?
AK: Now, I want to double up and expand my brand. I want to do more and make more collections. In the future I see Gazhaiyip growing into a strong brand representing the Kazakh identity to the world.