A. ROEGE HOVE CFW AW25’
Dedicated to the impact of intimate detail, A. ROEGE HOVE is a knitwear brand based in Copenhagen that redefines what it means to interact with one’s surrounding environment. Are we merely by products of what we know, or an amalgamation of where we’re going? This season’s offerings present us a crossroads, where streamlined aesthetic fundamentals collide with sustainable best practices. Where brands may reach a fork in the road, we bear witness to complexity and confidence as they coexist between woven fibers instead.
A. ROEGE HOVE is a “conceptual knitwear brand that challenges traditions with a modern and artistic approach to original craftsmanship”. Establishing itself as a pioneer in knitwear, the brand challenges the confines of traditional handiwork as they buffer against artistically influenced shapes and larger-than-life renderings of standardly understood human forms. The founder, Amalie Røge Hove started the brand in 2019 after having attained a master’s degree in textile design from the Royal Danish Academy of Fine Arts.
The brand is clearly focused on finding the point in which our perception meets material, and pushing it to a mind-melting breaking point. There is a special kind of tactful creation that accompanies the ability to shift a fabric’s perceived behavioral capacity. Originally focusing on accessories borne of “small-scale sculpturalism”, the brand has expanded from “bag to body” presenting myriad knitted forms that flesh out entire ready-to-wear collections.
AW25’ brings with it a well-poised fixation on the “transformative potential of garments”. Inspired by Franz Erhard Walther and his ideas which permeate notions of how the human body interacts with exterior objects. Not only were the models adorned with stunning, multi-dimensional garments, they were simultaneously encouraged to engage with the wears, through movement and touch creating a dynamic experience for the viewer.
The show was set in the same industrial building that happens to house the brand’s primary production. The studio is hidden in plain sight, bringing the viewer ever so close to the development process that is lost on so many. In our often mysterious pricetag to buyer white-wall-barricaded consumer experience, it’s easy to forget that many of our beloved clothing items are made in a very real, tactile place. Very infrequently do guests have the opportunity to be so close to the birthplace of contemporary artifacts such as the ones we watched saunter across the runway.
The brand made a clear comment on how nuance and dedication to detail can be the shining stars as the colour wheel was ostracised throughout this collection. One of the stand-out pieces was a head-to-toe all-black, sheer and striped set, playing on texture intentionally as seam lines allowed thumbs and tips of fingers to appear against the monochrome backdrop. Mostly composed of neutrals, save for a pop of teal or maroon – the forms of each piece, the layering, and the accessorized details are what really brought the collection to life. Need there be no frills or needless dramatization when the quality of the garments speak for themselves.
Words by Lauren Bulla
Images by Lily Maguire