HENRIK VIBSKOV
CFW AW25’
Positioned at the focal point between art and fashion, Henrik Vibskov brings together universes by way of angular hemlines and signature textiles. Bringing serious weight into what it means to be a multi-faceted creator, he is known for his work as an award-winning Danish fashion designer, artist, curator, and musician. Most commonly, he is acclaimed for the “twisted yet tantalizing” worlds that grow to encase each forthcoming collection. The latest series of works, which is presented at Copenhagen’s AW25’ fashion week, don the title “A bit Overwhelmed by the Opaque Resonance”.
Upon entry into the Theater Republique, audience members were taken aback by the sheer breadth of the arrangement. White tablecloths were laid across expansive dining room settings boxing in the runway whilst models sat, fixed within the space. Operating as a cross between installation and runway, the designer incorporated live music into the performance. Teaming up with long-term friend and musician, Hess Is More (Mikkel Hess), Henrik served as drummer during his own show. The event was as much a fashion show as it is a theatrical art piece, prompting audience members to explore where human’s capacity to dominate intersects with nature’s serenity.
Larger-than-life knitwear, spherical bear-like additions to hats, and oversized trousers with interior pocket patterns flipped outward, set up camp on the runway. Chunky knits with puff sleeves, and abstract designs appeared across the garments, as well as a boisterous and playful typeface, spelling out “Alpine” which really nailed the narrative home. Models traipsed across a runway decorated with empty wine bottles, glasses, and bowling pins, adding a layer of whimsy and intrigue to the designer’s universe. Neutrals balanced alongside an equal number of bright patterns and bold colour choices. Vibrant teals, oranges, and reds bounced along the catwalk.
Apollonian Circles by Hess Is More, which enjoyed a January run at Theater Republique, is directly worked into the designer’s narrative. The collaboration perfectly positions the connection between human and nature, production and rest, reuse and newness. The audience witnesses the ways that partnership and world-building is not only beautiful but necessary for new life. Playful patterns are interwoven, paired, and mixed in unexpected ways creating elevated interpretations of how they could intersect one’s personal wardrobe. Much of this collection’s inspiration comes from functional outerwear, mountaineering, and the creatures one will inevitably cross paths with, in the wide stretches of the natural world. Imagery of mountain goats, footprints, and fishermen contrast with more standard patterns including stripes, polka dots, houndstooth, and checks.
The table settings came alive showcasing the slow process of decay, highlighted by moss as it delicately seemed to grow across silverware. Statues and rocks – also becoming afflicted, were intricately installed throughout the space. Billowing drapes fluttered from ceiling to floor encasing attendees in Henrik’s world. The landscape became animated via misty soundscapes which were performed live. The scene was constantly evolving, reused over and over, to paint different images, borrowed from myriad theatrical performances.
Henrik Vibskov encourages us to ask ourselves the harder questions, to pay closer attention to where each footprint may lead, all while showcasing that play is very necessary along serious hemlines. Lastly, we need not fear colour in the mountainous terrains of our day-to-day lives, if anything – it may help others find their way.
Words by Lauren Bulla
Images by Lily Maguire