Junya Watanabe MAN AW 2025: Corpcore, Western Aesthetics, and Utilitarian Tailoring

Presented in Paris, the Junya Watanabe MAN Fall/Winter 2025 collection moves between Western, Corpcore, and utilitarian references, exploring a robust aesthetic that blends sartorial language with workwear. 

The mood is evident from the very first moment: the deep bass of Avi Kaplan accompanies a runway dominated by models with a commanding presence, evoking a solid masculine imaginary, almost an archetype of the rugged outdoorsman. The collection reinterprets the figure of the contemporary lumberjack, oscillating between the practicality of workwear and the refinement of structured cuts. 

Plaid is the season’s leitmotif, expressed in its most classic variations: from the red-and-black buffalo check to Prince of Wales patterns, as well as more experimental prints. Canvas chore jackets, leather trench coats, and military overcoats alternate with suede jackets and checkered coats, all characterized by an abundance of functional pockets. Both trousers and jackets maintain a clean, rigorous line, with sharp cuts that emphasize the contrast between formalwear and workwear. 

The expert use of materials—one of Junya Watanabe’s signature traits—translates into a sophisticated mix of denim, flannel, leather, and knitwear, often reworked into intricate patchworks with a strong visual impact. Collaborations add further depth to the collection: Filson introduces a selection of robust travel bags and outerwear, while Levi’s brings its denim heritage into dialogue with Japanese tailoring. New Balance makes its runway debut with a reinterpretation of the 471s, alongside boat loafers and trail boots, reinforcing the connection between streetwear and the brand’s functional aesthetic. 

The standout accessory of the season though? Headwear, in all its forms: androgynous wide-brim hats, beanies, fur trapper hats, and trucker caps—all testaments to an attention to detail that enriches every look. To break up the dark color palette of the collection, bold and unexpected color pairings emerge: neon orange with red, deep blues with blacks, creating a tension between elegance and chromatic exuberance. Junya Watanabe MAN Fall/Winter 2025 confirms itself as an exercise in hybridization and innovation, where tailoring merges with outdoor and streetwear culture, once again redefining the codes of contemporary menswear.