Yaku Stapleton AW25
Set against a backdrop of Afrofuturism, Yaku Stapleton offers us The ImPossible Family Reunion, a presentation which paints imagery of finding oneself as we traverse into the unknown. Upon entering, it becomes immediately apparent that this designer has a particularly outstanding knack for world-building. One of the most anticipated shows on the official LFW calendar – the brand navigates different “chapters” as they coincide with each new collection. Now focused on expanding into untraversed worlds, the previous season showcased a tightrope waltz between disgruntled pasts and future optimism. Yaku’s penchant for storytelling allows the audience to not only take in the stellar construction and innovative craftsmanship of the garments, but also insert themselves into an ever-unfolding story that advances with each passing season.
One of my favorite aspects of presentation-style events is the sheer capacity for world building that can be lost on audiences in the swiftness that catwalks often necessitate. The lore built into the collection speaks volumes to ongoing conversations which posit art as it intersects with fashion—this collection is nothing less than a masterpiece. Upon entering the space, guests received a “passport” with which they could create their own character and achieve stamps for visiting each section of the presentation. The venue was established via a series of stations, initially arriving at a reflective pool, seating placed around, we gazed out to a wall covered in fabric. Designed to be scribed onto, this facet of the presentation allowed the audience to reach their hand straight into the storyline. We were not merely onlookers, but had become integral to the story YAKU was aiming to tell.
Wandering further into the space, the central room had been transformed into what felt like a travellers’ home base. Walking into the family’s settling zone—all of their intimate artefacts were on display as they prepared to travel into the haze of the unknown. At the far end of the venue was a forest-like environment where the majority of the models could be seen congregating. This transformed into a lookbook staging area, creating yet another layer of intrigue. For the AW25 season, this chapter was designed to showcase “the family’s final day before stepping into the unknown”. Walking into the NewGen space was surreal to say the least, and gripping in ways I couldn’t have predicted. The models were in a flow state of sorts, shifting and moving with one another, their motives theatrical and pointed. Onlookers watched as hunters gathered their bounty, fish stuffed into large-woven backpacks. Leaders of the family stood on platforms, brandishing pointed quarterstaffs and other weaponry. All the while futuristic takes on puffer jackets, reminiscent of reptile-like qualities took centre stage.
In this fifth chapter, the brand seeks to redefine previous characters. Transmutations occurred via hemlines reminiscent of mythical origin and larger than life silhouettes. The energy in the space is one of a fast-paced momentum, undulating just below the surface. All the while, models amiably wandered, jovial and light-hearted. Representative of the variance we see in roles distributed by shifting levels of authority within the family, the character’s dynamic and enthralling. Each styling presented a distinct storyline, providing an opportunity to take in the garments, and simultaneously understand their unique purposes. Oscillations between actions, relationships, and direct stares into the audience held us captive – unable to turn away, we watched the narrative build in real time.
Reflecting on the process, “building this lore took weeks, so it had to extend beyond the garments, allowing audiences to engage directly,” the designer noted. This comes through via 3-dimensional renderings of the production, which is viewable via AR and on-stage animation. The traveller’s home base, or rather—“Granddad’s Workshop” was positioned to hold “character profiles, diaries, first-person audios, development sketches, holograms, and dye samples”… Thus creating a through line from spectator to creator, the audience had a rare opportunity to directly engage with each step of the design process. Often lost on viewership, showcasing this intimate and behind-the-scenes look at the conception of the season’s offerings is yet again another way that YAKU and his team set themselves apart.
The team worked in ongoing collaboration with theatre director, Dermot Daly, presenting the day as it unfolded at Sunset on Tutorial Island, sunrise to nightfall before the travellers embarked on their journey. The collection perfectly captures the highs and lows which accompany the decision to follow your artistic inclinations, in a world that can feel crushing at times. There is much discourse around the notion that the difference between those who make it, and don’t— often rests upon the decision to keep going. Commonly we are moments away from acknowledgement or success when we hit the “stop” button.
Yaku Stapleton and his team are a testament to persevering through the many uncertainties which circumvent following one’s creative vision. This season’s offerings allow fashion to become a succinct marriage between art and design, community and individualism. Yaku Stapleton offers a portal to pass through to the uncharted, hand outstretched. I recommend you take it, lest you miss your chance.
Words by Lauren Bulla
Photography by Lily Maguire