BAFCSM 2025
Written by Gabriel Mealor-Pritchard Asthetik magazine
Edited by Penelope Bianchi
Videos from BAFCSM and Asthetic magazine
Last night, at the Central Saint Martins campus, the BAFCSM class of 2025 presented their final graduate collections, showcasing their extraordinary talent for design and craft. I found myself promptly on the scene from 6 pm for the 7 pm start, eager to discover what was to come and oh my, I was not left disappointed.
18:30
I arrived. First in line… of course. As the doors began to open, any seat was readily available. I perched myself at the end of B-2, central to the runway and with a large gap to my left, perfect for capturing some undisturbed content. The front row was kept empty, each seat decorated with baby blue VOSS Water bottles, a gift from the sponsors. Chatter flew about the air of Daniel Lee’s arrival, Burberry’s Chief Creative Officer and judge of the BAFCSM fashion show, alongside distinct murmurs of rapper Asap Nast and socialite Fai Khadra’s appearances.
19:00
As if suddenly, the rows were filled, and I was sitting directly opposite the stars. At this moment, I knew I was sitting in the right place for the best view.
The lights shone bright, and the show commenced.
LUCY GLADDERS @lucygladderss
Menswear designer Lucy Gladders caught the attention of the audience for her futuristic, slouchy take on men’s clothing. Partnered alongside accessories, including spectacles, caps, and bags, the designer created calf-length, wide-legged shorts that were worn with a light coloured bomber coinciding with the neon orange drawstring bag that the models swung down the runway. Another model sported a blue boiler suit with silver accents, and each of the models donned matching black Nike Airmax 95s to consolidate this sense of athleisure that the designer brought to the show.
ZAINAB MANSARY @ZAINABXMANSARY
Fashion print student and Daphne Guinness scholar, Zainab Mansary, presented her graduate collection last night. With cropped, oversized blazers, interwoven leather over coats, open at the front and partnered with cyan coloured crochet shorts, the designer brought vivid insights of the culture of Sierra Leone to the catwalk through the two words emblazoned onto the striking suit. Titled, His Reflection is Blue, the collection represents nationality and culture through exquisite craft and design.
HANNAH SMITH @HANNAHSMI.H
I’ve said it before, and I’ll say it again: Representation! Something womenswear designer Hannah Smith brought to the BAFCSM25 show without a doubt. The collection featured two wheelchair-using individuals, shining a necessary light on the lack of representation of disabled individuals within the fashion industry. Smith, effortlessly, presented a collection of crochet, headpieces, tulle upon tulle, flowers, and the unmissable desire to spotlight those who are underrepresented. Bravo!
MARIE SCHULZE @MARIESSSSCHULZE
The words ‘shiny’ and ‘polished’ come to mind when reminiscing about Marie Schulze’s graduate collection that featured deconstructed office wear in dazzling pinks, deep hues of teal, and whites. Ruffled colours, buttoned down shirts and trousers purposefully too long brought unprecedented attention from the audience, including myself. Having the opportunity to attend the matinée at 3 pm as well, this was a collection I looked forward to having the opportunity to witness again later on in the evening.
LUCAS LIDY @3_LIDY
A pure favourite. Fashion designer and menswear student at the renowned fashion school, Lucas Lidy, presented a collection paying homage to his roots, the French countryside. Incorporating wheat into his designs, the creative infiltrated his designs with the feeling of the stretching fields of the campagne, with the crops sticking out of the top of the boots and bags, one model donning an ankle-length skirt made entirely of the material. Matched with short shorts and a crochet vest, each model wore gigantic hats that covered the models’ faces, built-in visors paved the way. C’était incroyable!
ANDY POMARICO @ANDY.POMARICO
“Oh no, he isn’t!” “Oh yes, he is!” Andy Pomarico brought a real sense of the pantomime to the final defile. The wicked witch of Central Saint Martins burst through the heavily decorated doors that the designer had created, which wheeled its way down the runway. Upon a broom and painted green, she cackled as the soundtrack chosen by the designer booed in the background with laughs from the “theatre’s audience” as she tormented the visitors. Like a childhood dream, the collection was one of those pieces of art that the more you look at, the more you see.
YUZE LI @REVLIX4
Yuze Li has always been at the top of his game since he arrived at Central Saint Martins. I vividly remember his illuminating Reset Show masterpiece that dominated the BAFCSM Instagram back in 2021. Since then, nothing has changed in terms of his creativity. His graduate collection showcased a plethora of crystalline garments, which reflected in the stage lights from the countless shards of sliced rectangular sequins. The majority of looks incorporated silver, metal bells that chimed as the models swayed. The metalware was crocheted into the garment, and the sound they produced added just that little bit extra. If that wasn’t all, an enormously brimmed hat with cascading jewels as well as two porcelain neckpieces accessorised the pieces, showcasing Li’s intentions to continually push the boundaries of his designs.
ISAAC CURIEL @ISAACLCURIEL
Isaac Curiel’s The Stray hasn’t left my head since I saw it. From his collection titled Trails, the designer crafted an elaborate gown inspired by the world seen through the eyes of canines. The base of the dress was crafted from gathered tulle bags which were filled with straw, leaves and the usual bits and bobs the dogs drag in. Upon the head was a true showstopper, a nest headpiece featuring two taxidermied pigeons and a dove. Twigs struck out and wings outstretched pulled the garment together in the best way possible. Another notable look from Curiel’s collection was The Poodle, quite possibly the fluffiest garment I may have ever seen thus far. Made from the accumulation of 50 bedsheets and all tightly sewn together, the look exuded… poodle. I loved it!
MATTHEW DAVID ANDREWS @MATTHEW.DAVID.ANDREWS
Throughout the show, the looks amazed the crowds, but there was a certain drama missing; this is where Matthew David Andrews steps in to fill that void. There’s no other way to say it, he made it rain… literally. Hidden beneath the sculptural hats he had created, tubes ran around the brims, and as the models reached the halfway point of the runway (where I was sitting, in perfect view), the waterworks began and the rain fell from head to toe. In a true John Galliano for Maison Margiela style, the pieces were dramatic, they told a story and left a lasting impact on the fashionscape of the night.
MYAH HASBANY @MYAHHASBANY
Finally, Myah Hasbany, where do I begin? The winner of the L’Oréal Professionnel prize presented a colossal inflatable number that had to take a side entrance to the runway due to its inexplicable size. Though the final look stole the show, the other looks had me feeling the same way. A duet of models, twins, slowly took to the stage, one in perfect colour, the other in a remarkable black and white version of the exact same look. I found myself blinking as if my eyes deceived me. The
creative showed nothing but creativity and a desire to succeed, which evidently, played into the extravagant Central Saint Martins look and came out on top. A triumph, to say the least.
Thank you to Central Saint Martins, BAFCSM, for having me; it was an unforgettable experience. I’m excited to see what next year brings!
G x