The Cold Magazine

Minimal Header

Sinead Gorey AW25 | Disheveled Glamour and Cigarettes on the Runway

London Fashion Week

Written by Lauren Bulla, photographs by Lily Maguire

As guests entered the venue at 20 Cavendish Square, it initially proved to be somewhat of a scavenger hunt. The treasure of which, would entail cigarettes on the runway, chicken burgers in hand, and bedazzled converse heels… But of course. It’s a Sinead Gorey show after all, who could expect any less? The converted parking deck was reimagined, replicating the feel of an underground nightlife event. Heavy industrial concrete juxtaposed against eerily seductive blue light, tinting a smoke machine haziness. There were secrets to be revealed, with certainty, we just weren’t privy to them yet. After witnessing the curated playfulness which buffets against Gorey’s penchant for drama, I knew the AW25 show would pack another punch. 

The oversized-tote bag entrails of any post-rave goooorl are displayed as accessories within the styling. KFC soda cups, chicken tenders, and cigs could be seen peppered throughout. Lights dimmed and then spotlights shone: before us the runway painted a scene of a perfectly dishevelled partygirl as we follow her journey after a big night out. The AW25 collection continued the designer’s affinity for mystique and theatricality in all of its’ unabashedness. The soundtrack which accompanied a complex colour palette – presented an atmospheric bass entrenched backdrop where the garments truly popped. Classic Gorey staples like her Hacienda stripes and faux furs appeared in more “grown up” colourways, imagined via steel, meringue, and cinnamon. 

The collection didn’t stray too far from its roots, including all-too-well-witnessed tones of crimson, and hot pink as the brand partnered with Converse for yet another season. Instead of the otherwise “youthful” classic version of the footwear, models donned an updated converse-heel as they strutted across the runway. Lipgloss popped out of built-into-skirt clasp purses and applied bitchily, mid-walk. Models were directed to hit their mark, momentarily stopping, presenting an attitude only known by those who brave it to the 6am close.

Reminiscent of the moments between club night chaos and the search for a flawlessly grungy afterparty feel, models bounced as they served up the antithesis to “clean girl aesthetic”. We wanted nothing more than to be part of their world. Unwavering in their demeanor, models looked upon the audience shamelessly. As if despite their “worse for wear” appearances, they knew we could never fathom serving high glamour whilst chomping down on KFC-partnered chicken tenders. Walks were imbued with a distinct level of c**tiness as each look clearly established ventures toward the next motive. Daring as ever and narrative-focused, the designer not only creates a scene you could sink your teeth into, but an update on previous visions focused on wearability, entwining with sensual fun.

The closing song which precluded the collection’s final walk-through, had the entire venue bobbing their heads in collective unison, symbolic of the way music and fashion bring us together. Gorey’s particular designation for world-building around and within the garments is part of her ever-expanding star power. No wonder guests are enthralled more and more with each passing season. AW25’s offerings disclosed to us, not so quietly, that partygirls never die, or at least not until they return home post-afters, smeared makeup and ciggies in tow.