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COLD

The LA Brand Bringing 90s Minimalism Back

Written by: Connie Fletcher
Edited by: Penelope Bianchi

If you’ve been paying attention to pop culture, you may have noticed a number of celebrities wearing LA-based brand EMPATH. Fashion muse Charli XCX has been seen head to toe in the growing label whilst promoting her highly anticipated album Music, Fashion, Film, whilst Kylie Jenner recently showed up to an NBA game sporting EMPATH. Following the release of its SS26 Collection, FIELD NOTES, Cold Magazine caught up with founder and designer, Emily Arakawa, to learn more about the brand’s direction and identity. 

Having grown up in Tokyo, Arakawa roots EMPATH’s visual identity in 90s minimalism and Japanese archival influences. “I prefer a subtle sexiness rather than something overt – lightweight fabrics that skim the body, clean lines, uncluttered silhouettes, minimal hardware, tonal palettes”. Her work seeks to create “a balance between refinement and imperfection” which can be evidenced through soft structures, fluid drape and raw, frayed finishes. These juxtapositions give the clothes what Arakawa calls a “lived-in quality”, recalling the untamed and grunge aesthetics that inspired many Japanese brands of the 90s.

Moving on from the previous collection ASPHALT LADY, which Arakawa describes as “inspired by the fast pace and shifting energy of city life as everyday commuters – think metropolitan boss-mode energy”, FIELD NOTES pivots in an entirely different direction. She wanted to slow things down and rediscover the childlike curiosity that is often lost in our day-to-day lives. The SS26 collection evokes a sense of adventure, referencing “long afternoons in the sun, wandering without a destination, lying in the grass. FIELD NOTES, she says, is designed for ‘life out in the open”. 

The collection is an ode to summertime, adopting ‘cooling icy tones and warm, sun-kissed hues’ to replicate the tension of “finding relief from the heat while still embracing its warmth”. For Arakawa, the concept extends beyond the clothes themselves; she clarifies that this is a way of living. FIELD NOTES captures a feeling: “summer days filled with adventure, spontaneity, and time spent outdoors”. In a world where productivity so often defines us, there is something refreshing in this desire to go back to basics, to seek pleasure in small moments.

These sentiments are echoed throughout the collection. EMPATH creates a muted aesthetic without becoming boring. It is effortless, but also intentional and considered. Arakawa describes her brand as “refined yet relaxed – both polished and a little undone”. The fabrics do most of the talking and simple silhouettes help to reduce visual noise. In prioritising an intentionally minimalist design philosophy, EMPATH exudes quiet confidence – sometimes less really is more. 

Intrinsic to this is the idea of comfort. “The experience of wearing a garment is just as important as how it looks,” Arakawa explains. “Fabric should feel beautiful against the skin. Soft, breathable and never restricting”. EMPATH prioritises “natural fibres such as cotton, silk and wool wherever possible” with FIELD NOTES focusing on textiles that are both silky and luxurious – “I love a lightweight, subtly sheer quality that feels airy and ethereal!” Comfort is essential to the escapism the collection proposes; it is difficult to be carefree and spontaneous if you’re busy worrying about how confining your outfit feels. 

Designed across Los Angeles and Japan, I wanted to understand how this hybridity might culturally inform the brand’s design direction. “The lifestyle behind the brand is very Californian,” Arakawa says, pointing to the exposed skin, lightweight fabrics and laidback silhouettes. Meanwhile, “the quality, craftsmanship and intentionality is very Japanese”. It is in this way that EMPATH can be viewed as existing between these two worlds, “combining the relaxed, effortless lifestyle of LA with the attention to detail that is deeply rooted in Japanese design culture”. 

Arakawa’s approach to design emphasises the need to “break out of the mold of everyday routine and occasionally have an adventure to draw creative inspiration from”.  The brand does not cut corners when it comes to fabric, construction or production and they aim to choose materials that elevate their garments. Arakawa’s main goal in her design is for wearers to “put on an EMPATH garment and feel that the quality exceeds their expectations”. As for the future, there is a lot on the horizon – collaborations, exploring knitwear for AW26 and continuing their commitment to thoughtfully expanding the wardrobe. Emily concludes that “It’s an exciting time for the brand, and I’m excited to keep building it one collection at a time”. 

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