The crowd at the Matières Fécales show in Paris on Tuesday was the cool kids club every designer, writer, and stylist wants to be a part of – with guests including Michèlel Lamy, Rick Owens, SZA and Chappel Roan. In a society where going against the grain is often ridiculed, designers Steven Raj and Hannah Rose Dalton continue to push the boundaries of expression, carving out a sanctuary for the bold, the strange, and the unapologetically authentic.
Tweed corsets and distressed hems met boat-neck tops and long white gloves that slither from beneath satin-black blazers, finished with asymmetrical floppy hats adorned with delicate floral details. Tulle ensembles and rose headpieces paid homage to Dalton’s middle name, Rose, weaving personal symbolism into couture. The white angel-wing headpiece and eggshell satin maxi dress offered subtle nods to the late Alexander McQueen, blending ethereal elegance with edge. Trailing leather belts and claw-like red bottoms – a collaboration with Christian Louboutin – completed the look, embodying a fusion of rebellion and refinement.
Halfway through the show, the atmosphere shifted from ethereally romantic to hauntingly gothic. A model in a black leather trench coat with stockings and a black eye mask appeared, followed by a trail of masked figures in corsets, crosses, and creepy creations. One model was dressed in only a corset, stockings, and gloves with a thick leather strap around their neck and, in place of trousers, a single pink rose. Oversized hoodies with the word “uncensored” printed on them further reinforced the collection’s narrative. Makeup left the models with black holes for eyes and pale painted faces, giving way to unsettling facial expressions and strange succulent stares that stayed with you long after the show. The show’s most moving moment came when Nikki Lilly graced the runway in a rose-adorned tulle gown, redefining what it means to be seen and celebrated. Finally, a corseted gown adorned in roses followed a bubblegum pink ballerina tutu, closing the show.
Matières Fécales continues to redefine what it means to shock – not through excess, but through honesty. Raj and Dalton have carved out a space where imperfection becomes art, and where the act of being seen is an act of defiance. It’s fashion that provokes, but also protects; that unsettles, yet somehow heals.
